12.23.09 from Kathmandu: Pharping

I first heard about Thinley Norbu Rinpoche in 2004 from my friend Adam in Nepal. I was told he was an other-worldly, amazing spiritual master, but kind of scary at the same time because of his dynamic energy and powers. It was rumored that it was nearly impossible to meet him now days, because of his advanced age, reclusive nature, and protective students. I was intrigued. Thinley Norbu Rinpoche arrived in Nepal last month, amidst much fanfare to inaugurate a monastery. An arch was constructed over the main highway in Kathmandu next to the airport to display a message welcoming him. Even though he was at the monastery leading ceremonies, it was still “not possible” to meet him according to various sources. I basically gave up on the prospect and assumed that he left the country while I was in Malaysia. While at my Tibetan friend’s bookstore last week, however, I heard from my British friend that he was still at the monastery for a few more days.

Last Friday, I hopped on a bus to Pharping, the town where I lived during the fall of 2004. The bus was packed and the roof was only 5’10” tall (plenty high for the average Nepali), so I had to stand in a bent position for the bumpy 2 hour ride. I was very happy to see my old town again and went to the guesthouse I had stayed five years earlier to get my $4/night room. I then walked to the home of one of Chatral Rinpoche’s close disciples to get some advice on the best way to make offerings to Chatral Rinpoche (who no longer meets people). He kindly asked his wife to drive me to Chatral Rinpoche’s home to set up an appointment with Chatral Rinpoche’s daughter.

Later that evening, I walked to the spectacular new monastery with offerings in hand and joined about 200 others in the beautifully decorated temple. We read through a Tibetan offering prayer that went on for about 90 minutes and featured melodious chanting and many prayers I was familiar with. Thinley Norbu Rinpoche had not made an appearance during these nightly prayers for three days. As the ceremony neared the end, I looked to my left and an elderly man walked into the monastery wearing large trekking boots and a huge poofy jacket. He had amazing long hair that made him look like a mystical wizard. It didn’t take long for me to figure out that this was the great Thinley Norbu Rinpoche. He walked around for a while to inspect the offerings and sat for a few minutes in his throne in the front before leaving through the back door. We all assumed that was the last we would see of him that day.

After the ceremony, I asked one of his assistants if I could meet him, and naturally, was told it was not possible, but I could get my mala blessed if I put it in a bag. I filled the bag with an offering, ceremonial white scarf, and a copy of my book on Chatral Rinpoche to accompany the mala and gave it to the assistant. As I walked into the courtyard, I noticed everyone was frozen and looking in awe at something in the distance. Thinley Norbu Rinpoche was talking with some friends of his close disciples. His five person security detail was not pleased with all the loitering students and asked them to “keep it moving.” I managed to drift back and wait for the right opportunity to meet the great master. I made it through a few layers of security and then spoke in Tibetan with one of his guards to ask if I could listen to the Dharma talk he was giving to one of the people he was meeting. This was the “secret password” and got me within a few feet of the legend.

I managed to get in line with some “special exceptions” to the doesn’t-meet-anyone rule (such as a child with a terminal illness) and prepared my offering. As my turn came, I introduced myself and presented him with a copy of my book, which featured old photos of his father Dudjom Rinpoche, and a chapter on the relationship his father had with Chatral Rinpoche. He seemed genuinely interested and asked me where I was from. He made a joke that my name Zach sounded wrathful. I shook his hand and pressed it to my head for a rare blessing and he put a white scarf around my neck. I thanked him and floated the two miles back to my guesthouse in the pitch dark.

The next morning, I get up early to meet with Chatral Rinpoche’s daughter and delivered 25 copies of the book Compassionate Action for her to distribute to his English-speaking disciples. She asked for my help publishing a few books of one of Chatral Rinpoche’s Western disciples and I gratefully received a protection cord, blessed pills, a holy text, and other sacred objects.

After breakfast, I hired a local man to take me to all the monasteries and holy sights in Pharping. Many spectacular photos can be found here.

I took the bus home in a way more accommodating to my height, by riding on the storage rack on the roof with about 50 Nepalis in their 20’s. Aside from the tree branches that regularly brushed our heads as we descended the mountain road, it was an enjoyable ride that offered a beautiful view of the Himalayas and the countryside.